Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.
“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.
It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.
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